ignition problem

does any one know how to check wether the crain hi4 is working properly

Have you tried the double fluffer valve? lol

[kiwidave]

well, is it a nosecone or external...

what are the symptoms

coil connections tight?

HT leads good? (done a swap?)

Lame question excuse me for asking: but you are running the right coils, yes? (though as Twin Cams are single fire also, that would be very likely)

Battery EARTH tight...

I've run a Hi-4 for 40,000 miles no worries at all - never even TOUCHED it.

They are pretty reliable.

The cheapest and simplest things tend to go wrong first....but....shoot...

(and actually, now I am asking, why are you running an aftermarket single-fire on a Twin Cam? Just interested, that's all...)

im not running a twin cam,its an evo .
the bike started knocking under load,checked the timing all ok .
plugs white,to lean.changed carb,still knocked but bit better cos one plug white one black,told you got, an intake leak.
Changed gaskets, still the same .took heads off melted pistons,
Changed pistons,back together,still knocks,told your running lean, changed carb to mikuni 42 ,still knocked,turned spark advance right back, luvly no knocking but plugs white,
Toooo lean,changed pilot and main jets to bigest in the kit.
Plugs white,glowing exaust,knocks on tickover when hot ,now been told its the hi4 you can buy them and sometimes they dont work this has knocked from first built with brand new hi4
ps its in the nose cone and all the connections are good new sreaming eagle leads, changed coil twice
SO COME ON GIVE ME A CLUE

[kiwidave]

(sorry, mistook bike pic above for yours)


OK.

There was a problem with earlier nosecone models overheating. How old is it?

Swap it out with a mate's module (and coil if need be) and see......

Are you getting the right timing result with the built-in LED?????....these can often be static timed and run good out of the box with nothing more.

Got the Crane instructions? Rang their Tech Support? They are known for being very helpful

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=insta...s%29#Ignitions


But again, you need to be sure there are *NO* intake leaks.....also....did it run absolutely right **BEFORE** the Crane ignition? That is the key question.

[Phil]

Are you REALLY REALLY sure the timing is correct?
What`s the compression?
Generally with the Hi-4 they either work of they don`t, you turned back the advance & the knocking stopped, seems like the advance works.
I would be worried about the base timing.
Are they factory flywheels with factory timing marks?

103 stroker s&s flyweels timing was set by a shop
before the melt down. The knocking was only under realy heavy load.Thats wen i was told way to lean and from then on all the trouble started .This is a brand new engine done about 300 miles infact not even that . the bottom end is in delkron cases all new cam crain 1005 all new lifter gear heads roller rockers the lot ,and brand new hi4 with flashing red light .
The compression is 190lb . I just cant ride the thing could the knocking have been the hi4 from the off .
Its a real pig to start It fires but wont pick up and backfires throu the carb it works if i jump it off the car

[Phil]

First step I would do is static time the ignition.
Find TDC, then follow Cranes instructions .
The ignition will have the model number written on it, make a note then download the instructions from one of these:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=insta...s%29#Ignitions

[kiwidave]

AND HERE ARE S&S TIMING INSTRUCTIONS OFF THEIR WEBSITE





What should I set my ignition timing at?
S & S recommends using electronic ignition with adjustable advance curve in Super Stock and Super Sidewinder Long Blocks. Adjustable curve permits slowing rate of advance to control or eliminate pinging under heavy load or when elevated temperatures or poor quality gasoline are encountered. Install ignition according to manufacturer's instructions. Leave spark plugs out while static timing to ease flywheel rotation.

Flywheels in S & S Big Twin-Style Long Blocks have three timing marks:

( F ) = Front cylinder firing mark, 35? degrees before TDC with vertical line in center of hole.

See caution below.

( R ) = Rear cylinder firing mark, 35? before TDC with dot in center of hole.

( T:F) = Front piston, Top Dead Center with colon ( in center of hole.

Most fully electronic ignitions are timed at TDC. Points and other ignitions with mechanical advance are timed at front cylinder firing mark. With correct mark centered in timing inspection hole, ignition at full advance will occur 35? before TDC. S & S, however, recommends setting initial timing at 32? BTDC. This can be accomplished by setting the ignition to fire when flywheel mark is leaving timing inspection hole on left side.

CAUTION - Operating V2-Style Long Block with mark centered in hole at 35? can cause detonation and damage to engine not covered under warranty.

cheers lads iv found the insrutctions
il let you know how i do