questions ,questions.

[zipps]

what is the correct brake fluid level front and rear ,for 82 shovel fx.do they all have oil filters in the tank.and what sort of oil is best multi or strait.bit of a question that one...thank you..

[kiwidave]

brake fluid is correct when it does not spill out of the reservoirs when the caps and rubber inners go on and are screwed down! the critical thing is that the tiny feed hole is covered when bars are in all positions.

If you overfill, use a small syringe to remove. Or just wrap area with a rag as you screw on the cover, you do not want brake fluid on paint!!

From 1982-1986 the four-speed big twins had remote oil filters, bottom of the frame right in front of back wheel. Spin-on, spin off.

If your bike is stock, that's what it has


You need a manual man, parts and service manuals!!!!

Straight weight 50 for a Shovelhead engine. Do NOT use 20w/50w, that is for Evos.

[zipps]

thanks Dave.have got a Haynes.but not quite up to speed, yet or with the m/c....mine seems to have a small filter at the rear of the crank case but not in the oil tank....

[Kiwi]

Originally Posted by kiwidave

From 1982-1986 the four-speed big twins had remote oil filters, bottom of the frame right in front of back wheel. Spin-on, spin off.

If your bike is stock, that's what it has

Straight weight 50 for a Shovelhead engine. Do NOT use 20w/50w, that is for Evos.

my 82 had the filter in the oil tank, have since fitted a remote oil filter

staight 50 weight ?? maybe for summer in a better climate but not for the english weather use 20/50

if you are worried about the oil fit a oil cooler with a thermostat

[Simon_Y]

Use DOT 5 brake fluid which is silicone based ( that isn't the same as the 5.1 you find in Halford which is intended for ABS systems). KD is right re the filling levels. Also the 50 weight oil answer is spot on unless you live in the desert, like me, when you have to knotch it up to 60 weight at the height of the heat. a multgrrade will likely make the thing piss oil out or every orifice( mine anyway) when I was forced to use it once . having said that I have a mate in the UK who swears by 20/50 in his late shovel FXR cause after all the lower of the late shovels and early evos were almost identical

The haynes manual is best put on a piece of string in the toilet and used to wipe your a$%e. Although expensive get youself an original HD service and a parts manual which shows all assemblies fully exploded and means you can walk into your local stealership and stun the low brow behind the counter by giving him the exact part number you require rather than some rambling descrption and still end up with the wrong piece! The HD manuals can be gotten off the inernet (e-bay and are available from the likes of Custom Chrome, J&P cycles ( don't think you have to pay vat on imported books) and of couse the dealerships. They are worth their weight in gold.

BR

SImon

[kevscrivener]

Regarding oil; you'll have guessed by now that there are as many opinions as there are Shovel owners!

I would suggest that straight 50 is the way to go, I've used it for years without any hassles. 20/50 is fine on one condition; that you've rebuilt the bike from scratch. Reason is, most modern multigrades contain detergents, and if you start using them in an older engine without first having thoroughly stripped it, you run the risk of dislodging years of accumulated crap which has been quietly minding its own business in the nooks and crannies, but will now get together and do its darndest to block up an oilway.

I have used Morris "Elite 50" for many years; it's not too expensive, and has the benefit of being available in 25 litre drums, which of course works out cheaper. It's also easy to get hold of; there will almost certainly be a motor factor in your area who deals in Morris products, alternatively you can order it direct here; they will deliver.

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/

Plus it's British!

As for manuals, I'll go along basically with what Simon Y says, but you should also add a Clymer manual to your collection, covers routine servicing as well as rebuilds and contains some useful dodges to avoid the usual H-D "this can only be done by a dealer" routine. Haynes manuals do have one use; they tend to have a lot of good pictures which can be a help, but as Simon says ignore the text!

[zipps]

Thanks for replies.have since found detached oil filter in oil tank??.and think I will go with a Clymer manual .cheep s/h.on Amazon...