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Vintage & Classic Era
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#1
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| That effing clutch. I understand that it is a shovel but..Having renewed and checked all.it is still a pig I just cannot seem to get enough lift on the pressure plate.so I am thinking that perhaps an upgrade is in order could any one recomend a reasonable aftermarket clutch.as it is spoiling an otherwise exelent bike...thanks.. |
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#2
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| Re: That effing clutch. Hi Zipps dontknow if this helps but i dad a terrible time with my shovel when i first got it,the clutch always seem to drag and getting nutural with the engine running was a nightmare i always had to try and drop it out of gear on the way down through the box,i suffered with this for a couple of years if i ajusted the clutch so could get nutural from first with the engine running the clutch slipped,i had a clutch lever that was just a lever ie no switches on it ,i put a new clutch lever on with a built in switch housing the lever travels further and my problems dissapeared [i got a lot more lift on my clutch and i have no problems getting gears or with clutc drag or slipping, hope this helps chris
__________________ "Tune in turn on and drop out"
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#3
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| Re: That effing clutch. well thanks Hippy.that is a very good point.Will check that out... |
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#4
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| Re: That effing clutch. There are several very worthwhile upgrades to a shovel clutch. Dry Clutch operating problems are: 1/ The basket bearing between the clutch shell & the hub is pretty much useless as it allows the shell to `wobble`. Upgrade #1 is to take it out & toss it. In its place install a set of long roller bearings, which only allow it to rotate `flat` as it were. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...0-F54F597889AC. 2/ The flat steel plate with the `curly` retainer springs, allows the shell to move in & out when engaging the clutch. There is a retainer kit which sets the correct free play & does not allow movement. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...6-8A78F1EB8E9E It is also more than worthwhile to junk the pressure plate as they are usually warped. Another useful tip: When adjusting the clutch springs, don`t do it by measuring the free ends of the studs. Pull in the clutch & spin the pressure plate by hand. Individually adjust each nut, in or out until the plate rotates flat & parallel. Then tighten or loosen the whole assembly one click at a time until you get the correct pressure. Keep checking that it rotates flat. I have had many dry clutches, utilizing all the above I`ve never had a problem. Neither of them expensive either. Used one of these too, inexpensive & WAY better than stock. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...C-A6DD1E8A9649
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#5
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| Re: That effing clutch. Phild.I have performed all the things you have listed with no improvement I have allso been in the gear box side of things all to no avail.I think the penny droped with Hippys remark about the h/bar lever.I just cannot get enough travel on the push rod to release the pressure plate..The only improvement is if I remove 1 steel plate this allows enough travel to produce a half decent clutch.so when I have a replacement lever of the straight type I expect to see an improvement,ha ha.If not I will rip the thing out and get a Revera..Thanks for your reply.... Rich. |
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#6
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| Re: That effing clutch. I know I am probably stating the obvious. Have you checked the position of the clutch operating arm on top of the gearbox. At rest with about 2 to 3 mm of slack on the cable it should be back to about 6mm clear of the starter motor body at the clutch cable attachment point. Any further away from the starter motor means that the leverage ratio and travel decreases.
__________________ Barrie Reid |
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#7
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| Re: That effing clutch. yep. maladjustment makes it very easy for the release arm to hit that - or on a 79-86 4spd tranny slam into the turret top - before the clutch has disengaged properly. Simple stuff first. |
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#8
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| Re: That effing clutch. I will check again tonight... |
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#9
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| Re: That effing clutch. Stuff the bleeding thing have got a Revera pro, bloke says he will adjust the stated price on the shipping, which was nice...Rich. |
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#10
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| Re: That effing clutch. Some handlebar levers on Brit bikes have a larger pull than others due to the distance between the fulcrum point of the lever and the cable end,this can then allow a larger throw onto the clutch plate if the two points are closer together, if you get my drift Just a thought Chilly |