knock knock

[Ukkid76]

Originally Posted by michael_dinwiddy

Ok been back in the garage and had another fiddle about.

UKkid76, repairing your own bike is alway preferable to getting someone else to do it in my opinion, and I dont think I am going to take my bike to someone who knows about "rattles", I have listened intently to the motor and so have a good few of my mates including one who prepares buell motors for the track. They all say the same thing.. 'could be this..could be that ..wont know till it's stripped down.

So Im going to take off the rocer covers and rockers, inspect them, remove pushrods, inspect them (unlikley to have a bent one). Then start on the timing side check out the lifters etc...

Proper workshop manual and little alen key for rocker cover in post.

All hints tips and comments welcome.

I never said you shouldn’t actually do the repair yourself, just that you get another opinion on where the knocking is coming from, so at least you target the right place and don’t waste time and money removing everything just for the sake of it,

But you say you have a number of people who have helped you well, good on you,

Lets hope you find the knocking within the tappets and pushrods!!

Ukkid76

[michael_dinwiddy]

no worries mate.

[Trevor]

Don't forget the Club tool hire if you need something special.

[michael_dinwiddy]

yep I was tinking of thet when I checked my compensator nut, to get it off I would have to lock the engine and I believe there is a special too for doing it..rather than a lump of wood and the healp of a bunch of mates.

Anyway they will be listed in the manual when it arrives.

But you are right I will definatly make use of the club tool facility (that sounds a bit dodgy)

[robbiemac]

Hi Michael, how's it going with the knock, any results yet?

[michael_dinwiddy]

startewd pulling things apart, its not the compensator nut as that is well fast.

The manual has arrived and so after a good read I recon I will be able to remove the lifter assemply quite easily and have a look.

Lots of opinions have been passed to me through various mediums (not Derek Akoura though) and the majority seem to think that I have an oil blockage or some pressure problem.

[Simon_A]

Hi Mike....hope every thing is good in the west
I've been following your problems for a while, and I'm beginning to think that one of your lifters may be the culprit. Would give you some noise, possibly not all the time and account for the debris that caused your barrel problems. Keep posting. As mine's over 50000! and didn't look too bad the last time I looked.

[michael_dinwiddy]

Im glad you think it may be a lifter, that exactly what others have said...

will keep all informed, but have been sent to Reading for a couple of weeks andwill not get the time to tinker

[michael_dinwiddy]

ok finally got the thing stripped down and removed both sets of lifeters and blocks with help from the official manual (nifty tip in book on removing blocks and lifters with paper clip).

All looks to be in good order, however I noticed that the front lifters did not have their oil holes lined up with the ones in the block.. the manual sayes they dont have to be but a little bird said they sould be. this may account for slightly less oil pressure to the front lifter assembly resulting in a knocking once warm, me thinks.

Any thoughts?

[kiwidave]

I have always gone by the book - ''orientation is not an issue'' and have had no problems.

Can't remember the year of your bike, but be aware that in the mid 90s or so the Evo lifters were substantially resdesigned and now represent one of the best-value replacement parts at the dealership. If you have an old Evo as i do, when you ask for lifters at the parts counter you automatically get the improved version.

And they should be replaced every 30,000 miles or so, just for insurance.

PS: Now is definitely the time to consider binning your OEM one-piece pushrods and getting Crane Timesavers. Mine have already paid for themselves when a pushrod o-ring split. No more pulling the gask tank and rocker boxes for any pushrod/tappet block/cam issues

(PPS: Replace **ALL** the pushrod o-rings and seals when you button it back up)