leaking base gasket

[Ex3t3r]

Can the more informed of this group please tell me
if both cylinder head & barrels can be removed with
the engine in frame,? (service manual not to clear on this point!)

I have developed a slight oil leak on the rear
cylinder base gasket, and wondered if i torque
the head down slightly, this may cure the problem?

If not then i must resign my self to renew both
gaskets on each cylinder for good measure, and any other
gaskets which will require replacement during re-assembly.

Bike details:

Year: 1991
Model: FLHS
1340 EVO

Many thanks in advance

ps. this is first time i may have to do this procedure, so any tips would
be great fully received.

[chilly]

Not sure about doing it on an FLH but on my FXR i did it,i reckon i had to drop the front mounting to do it tho,its been a while since i did it but i dont think the rear rocker boxes will come off if you don't.

While you have the barrels off get the base skimmed,apparently these can warp a tad ,around a ten thou skim will sort it with no more leaks.

Good luck
Chill

[girlyglide]

hi

You can remove both the front and rear heads and cylinders whilst the engine is in the frame. You might want to consider buying a rocker box wrench by Motion Pro (part number 04700) from any CCI dealer as this will considerably reduce the time taken to remove the rocker box hex screws.

Don't try to fix this by re-torquing the heads, remove and replace the gaskets with either the later style or a "Oil fix" kit like Hayden make. You could also have the base of the cylinders faced off to give a perfectly flat mating surface.

I have used the "Oil Fix" kits and have not had a recurring problem once they have been used.


Hope this helps.

[Phil]

DON`T tighten the heads.
Both can be removed in frame.
As the others have said: Chuck the cylinders up in a lathe & have the bottoms cut. This will square them up & also remove the old gasket. The Hayden oil fix kits work well, but whatever you do do not use the Harley paper gaskets. James or Cometic work best.
If you haven`t already get a manual. HD genuine manuals are way better than the rest

[kiwidave]

just be ****ULTRA*** careful with that little brass dowel in the Oil Fix kit. It is not magnetic...so if you drop it into the cases......World of Pain!!!

I have done all the above... Oil Fix....barrrels skimmed...James gaskets. Good advice.

[Kiwi]

and remember once you get it back together to warm the bike up before you give it a handful of throttle, which has probably caused this in the first place

its one of the few design faults in the evo, they rely upon thermal expansion to take up the torgue on the top end gaskets

an allen key cut to length will get the rear rocker box undone

snap on sell a nice tool that does the same job

try the club tool hire scheme, they may have the requisite tool otherwise a steady hand with an electric drill and drill the frame in the right place to allow easy access to the allen head screws on the rocker box

[Ex3t3r]

Originally Posted by girlyglide

hi

You can remove both the front and rear heads and cylinders whilst the engine is in the frame. You might want to consider buying a rocker box wrench by Motion Pro (part number 04700) from any CCI dealer as this will considerably reduce the time taken to remove the rocker box hex screws.

Don't try to fix this by re-torquing the heads, remove and replace the gaskets with either the later style or a "Oil fix" kit like Hayden make. You could also have the base of the cylinders faced off to give a perfectly flat mating surface.

I have used the "Oil Fix" kits and have not had a recurring problem once they have been used.


Hope this helps.

Thank you all for taking the time to reply,
but i have a query, what or whom is a 'CCI dealer'?
If it's what i think it is, are their any based in the UK
to enable me to purchase this tool?

Please excuse my ignorance, and thanks again
to every one who replied, your knowledge and
experience is truly valued

[SX 150]

Originally Posted by Ex3t3r

Thank you all for taking the time to reply,
but i have a query, what or whom is a 'CCI dealer'?
If it's what i think it is, are their any based in the UK
to enable me to purchase this tool?

Just buy a copy of BSH or other mags and there's always a full page advert for CCI- Custom Chrome with a list of dealers and phone numbers.

Or just P.M. Girlyglide I guarantee he'll know someone with good prices.

I did my base gaskets on my softail a real bit of giggling about to get the heads off but all came off/on fine in the end,- I had the barrels machined as Phil said, and used James gaskets,- seems fine so far.

[Ex3t3r]

Originally Posted by SX 150

Just buy a copy of BSH or other mags and there's always a full page advert for CCI- Custom Chrome with a list of dealers and phone numbers.

Or just P.M. Girlyglide I guarantee he'll know someone with good prices.

Thanks

[kiwidave]

few extra points to help you through the job first time....

You will be buying or borrowing two torque wrenches, i reckon.

James Gaskets and H-D gaskets have slightly different torqueing-up procedures. Everyone has their own way here...but the fact is if you follow the instructions to the letter in either case, you won't go wrong.

Check the cylinder studs are not loose...that can contribute to the leak. It can be tricky but they can be replaced.

Be fussier than a fussy thing about removing gasket debris from all faces. I use a rag soaked in cellulose thinners and a *blunt* edge myself. Thinners really does loosen up that stuck-on shit.

The little things like dippng the head bolts in oil (as per the manual) prior to torqueing really matter. You dont want to bolt it all up and find the leak still there...or a new leak. it gets costly and bloody frustrating.

You need to drive out the pins that hold the rocker arms with a drift. Don't be scared!

*MAKE SURE* you put the rear rocker arm on the rear head, the front on the front, etc....that stuff is important. Everything goes back whence it came. The pushrods are colour coded and different lengths. Refer to manual.

Correct torque is even vital on those four little bolts on top of the rocker covers. Replace the washers and the fibre washers. It costs pennies.

Be very careful to have the rocker assemblies/gaskets absolutely square before you button them up. One of the gaskets just sits in place and if it should move out of position before bolting down, you have a leak waiting to happen.

I was scared first time I did it years ago...but it's easy peasy now.... the RIGHT tools and care and attention make it so.