Bone Idling

Hi,

I fitted the stage one in the summer and it was running perfectly.
So....... naturally I wanted it to run 'just that little bit more' perfectly ..........and here I am about to ask for some advise to return it to where it was.

The bike still run beautifully, no pops or farts on over run and a good clean pull right through the rev range.
But when I start it on full choke, it starts up fine but then will chug and die after a minute if I leave the choke fully out. If I push the choke it at all it just dies unless I give it some throttle. Once it's warmed up it will idle fine with no choke and it seems to be at the right idle speed.
The carb was set up using the U.S. settings for the needle, with the clip on the forth notch, rather than the Euro settings in the S.E. instructions of putting the clip on the thrid notch.
But like I said it was fine before I 'adjusted it' D'oh!!!!!!

Any advise greatfully received

RichC

[zipps]

Are you saying that it will not run right since the stage one ...Or has it run ok but now don't since fiddling?????.

[zipps]

O I see it has run ok with stage 1 ..Can you not reverse what you have done since????

That's the problem, I thought I did put it back to where I had it! Which was on the setting as per the Dynajet instructions.
The only thing I didn't do as per instructed was pull out the blanking plug on the carb, as once I had drilled through it I could adjust the screw through the drill hole. Although this doesn't seem to be blocking the screw.
Seems like the fully out position of the choke is too rich for anything other than the inital firing up or the rest of the choke is too weak for the rest of the warm up?

[zipps]

If I read you right you have upset the adjustment...So you need to dial it in again..I have one of thoes Dyna jet thingies but have never fitted it .perhaps you could try Dyna jet I expect they have a web site...Good luck..Rich.

[SJC69]

Right the problem is only with cold starting and the choke?

If this is the case the position of the needle, main jet size, holes drilled in the slide spring etc will have no effect.

It will all be under the control and settings of the slow jet, mixture screw and the enricher (choke).
You need not look at anything else, so moving the needle height will not make any difference.

You can most likely assume there is no problem with the slow jet as when warm and pulling away all is fine, the mixture screw must be at least nearly right as all is fine when warm.

So I would recommend you take a look at the enricher control, which is the cable operating a plunger, which could be not operating correctly or clean.

IE You pull the knob it operates the plunger which then enriches the mixture via opening up an additional circuit in the carb body.
It appears to work when fully open as the bike starts but not when it’s partially open.

Are you following the correct starting procedure as per the handbook?
IE starting with no throttle full choke, then ride off not trying to leaving it to tick over for several minutes?

[Phil]

Start it up, push the choke in & lock the throttle partially open with the throttle lock screw. This will allow it to warm up without washing the cylinders with fuel. When it is warmed up undo the lock & off you go!

[kendo]

My bone's idle nowadays

I know, I'll get me coat.......................back to the beer tent

[little_dave]

Iv'e a stage 1 on my 03 sporty, I srart up on full choke, no throttle, as soon as it runs I close the choke slightly, hop on and ride off, after about 1.5 miles I close the choke and that's it, at this time of year when it's really cold it farts a bit until i get the bike warm.Hope this helps.