All you need to know about: Battery, Charger, Optimate,

[grbrown]

Originally Posted by Old_Bob

American domestic service is 110 volts so unless you get something with a dual voltage input you will also need a 240/110 volt transformer

Good point! I have checked Optimate websites in both the UK and USA and neither mentions the mains supply!

[clan ken]

Originally Posted by sjc69

so it is not an 'optimate' branded charger then?

if so all the reference & info supplied by urrell most likely will not apply.

basically an optimate branded charger will apply a higher voltage to the battery when it detects a deep discharged i.e. Sulphated battery to restore it to a usable state if it can. It will show a desulphating/recovery led when doing this, again will depend on a model.

assuming all the other checks such as connections, charging etc. Have been done it also may be advisable to carry out a current draw test ie bike turned off as left when parked to determine if the battery is being discharged by the alarm, short circuits etc.
also the temperature the bike is stored at will have an effect on the battery, the colder it is the less power available

if it is a sealed battery this will be of the vrla type and if it has been completely or severely discharged and or left discharged for long periods it will not recover, no matter what is done to it.

it may well read 12 volts plus but can not deliver the current and may be prone to complete failure without any warning, fine one day failed the next.

if all the charging & starter motor test out ok, for home testing cold cranking will give you the best idea of performance, charge the battery, crank the bike cold with the plugs in but caps off and grounded, measure the volts across the battery during cranking, below 9.5v the battery is fwkd. Below 10v probably not that good.

couple of other points is it a h-d battery & is it the right amp hour rating?

h-d batteries are excelent and most replacements are not as good or perform as well so may lack the power required if slightly sub standard.



has this come from h-d? As the '06 and earlier factory manuals states 14.3 ~ 14.7 volts @ 3600 rpm @75 deg f { 24 deg c}

could your meter be reading high if you have used it for all these tests, in which case your battery would be reading lower than 12v after being left and fwkd.

just to let you know my meter was reading to high have now bought a new one so thanks for that ,and when battery has been fully charged and left stood of bike after two days go,s down to 13 v and stays there ,now thinking this is ok unless you know differant

[Old_Bob]

I'm not sure if this thread is taking the piss - there are so many posts about bloody optimates in the Technical section that makes me think 'someone' is trying it on.

[clan ken]

Originally Posted by old_bob

i'm not sure if this thread is taking the piss - there are so many posts about bloody optimates in the technical section that makes me think 'someone' is trying it on.

its just me BOB i think this electrical charching thing has me baffled but i,ve now sussed out the search engine but its good to talk ,and i,m still doing my research

[SJC69]

If you have checked all the charging & starter motor wiring and test out OK, try a cold cranking test.

This will give you a good idea of performance & charge holding of the battery without overloading it, you are just asking it to do what it should do normally.

Standing battery voltage gives very little indication of the battery condition & performance.

What you want to know is....

Can the battery start the bike, will it recharge and keep starting the bike when left again?

Charge the battery, Crank the bike cold with the plugs in but caps off and grounded, measure the volts across the battery during cranking, below 9.5v the battery is fwkd. below 10v probably not that good.

If it passes you could then conduct a second test by charging the battery disconnect the charger and leave overnight then retest and compare the results.

If it is a case of the voltages are OK but the battery just will not start the bike, try another battery if you can and if it starts your battery may well just not be capable of delivering the current necessary, this does happen especially when batteries get older or have been left discharged for long periods.

Don't just get a new battery until you have determined everything else if OK and it is the battery or you may well be getting a second one in a very short time.

[Panhead Boris]

This is all very complicated for me, and making my head hurt.

My solution is much simpler - a bike with a kick start, and regular use.

Battery costs about £20 and lasts at least 8 years and never needs a Minder (whatever that is).