When do you change your brake pads?

[T Bear Jackson]

Original rear pads on my 07 Softail, about 12K miles, are down to 2.5mm, limit is 1mm. So I'm guessing they have maybe a few hundred miles left and were off on a jolly jaunt to Talgarth tommorow, hence best to replace as a precautionary measure.

However looking at the amount of meat on the new pads, circa 5mm, shows I may be going a bit over the top and there's a lot more life left in the old pads than I think.

At what point do most folks change their pads, on the limit? Just before the limit?

[BaZa®]

I just do a visual check every engine oil change along with other checks, I take mine down to just above minium and always get spares so I always have a spare front and back in stock. that's 6 pads for my RK.

Look in our suppliers section before buying, there has been a couple of threads lately on pads.

Before you start make sure you have the correct tools

Socket size for brake pad pins and front Caliper retaining bolts

[MADDOG187]

I think the pad limit on bikes is the same as cars , which is 1.5mm , as your on 2.5mm you should be good for a couple of thousand miles,
just keep an eye on the wear , if it starts going a little wedge shaped change them ,
but i recon you will be fine

[cut throat]

i do mine when my brother tells me to

[Mr B]

A visual check is a must. The pads can easily be forgotten because the longer they are in, usually the better they are bedded in, and your brakes work fine. Your brakes can feel 100% on worn out pads, but pads are cheaper than discs and easier to fit.
1.5mm of friction material is the minimum....anything less and I'd think quick about changing them. It's not unheard of for the friction material to part company from the backing plate due to the heat generated from braking and the bond failing.

Brian.

[banquo]

If you haven't done it already, take the pads right out to inspect them. They don't usually wear evenly, and the bottom usually wears more than the top on mine, so they're usually thinner than you think. Once you have them out, clean thoroughly, and inspect the area where they bond on to the backing plate for any bubbling or separation. Also check the edges for signs of delamination. Any bubbling, lifting or cracks on the edges and you should bin them.
As you have them out by then, even if they're OK, why not just fit the new ones, and keep the part worn for emergency spares? Only takes half an hour, but I guess you're off to Talgarth by now...

Read this for pix of what to look for.

[T Bear Jackson]

Originally Posted by banquo

If you haven't done it already, take the pads right out to inspect them. They don't usually wear evenly, and the bottom usually wears more than the top on mine, so they're usually thinner than you think. Once you have them out, clean thoroughly, and inspect the area where they bond on to the backing plate for any bubbling or separation. Also check the edges for signs of delamination. Any bubbling, lifting or cracks on the edges and you should bin them.
As you have them out by then, even if they're OK, why not just fit the new ones, and keep the part worn for emergency spares? Only takes half an hour, but I guess you're off to Talgarth by now...

Read this for pix of what to look for.

Pulled the pads on the 10K service to check for delamination, force of habit as much as anything - I actually had this happen on a Kwacker to the point where it was possible to peel the friction material off with my fingernails.. v worrying. No problems at the 10K.


The pads only arrived just before Talgarth so ran out of time to change em. Changing before its required and using the old uns as spares is a rather good idea, think I'll use that method for the front.

The wear was indeed uneven top to bottom and the outer pad was about 2.5mm but the inner was 1.5mm so yes they really do need to come out to be checked.

Many thanks to all for the advice....