How to modify your Spot lights

[SJC69]

How to modify the Spot Light wiring so they will work with both the High and Low beam not just the Low Beam on a late tourer

First off I was given this from the Road King Riders Forum…



Not bad… but two problems…

One, the feed to the Spots is not direct from the back of the head lamp connector, it’s actually joined in the wiring loom somewhere.

Two, I would like to be able to reverse the process back to standard if need be.

So I came up with this.



In reality the 4 pin Amp connector blocks to the Passing lamp {spot lights} switch and the Accessory switch have their terminal 2 & 3 linked on the switch side of the connector.

So it would be a simple task of moving the yellow feed wire in terminal 1 in the Passing lamp switch connector to either terminal two or three just to get it out of the way and keep it safe. Then doing the same for the live fused feed in terminal 4 of the Accessory switch block. In this case I chose terminal 2.
Then all that is needed is to make up a connector wire to join terminals 3 & 4 in the Accessory switch connector with terminal 1 in the Passing light switch connector.

What this then gives you is an independent fused feed to the Spot lights so the will work regardless of the headlight and it is simple to change it back if required.
Simply remove the connector cable and replace the pins in their original positions.

The problems, well you could overload the accessory supply, if you are using the accessory feed for other things, so this is something to consider!
Also the spots will now work if the ignition switch is put in the accessory position too, so helpful people could turn them on and run the battery down if left like that.
In my case neither really applies.

Oh, as to just why the spots don’t work with High beam in the first place it seems to be to meet a regulation in a very few US states for some reason, but no one seems sure as to why!

So how to do it ….

After assembling the tools and removing the headlamp





I made up a suitable connector wire, using some spare Amp pins that I had, you can by them in strips of 10 at the dealers or else where they are not very expensive.
I used a soldered joint rather than using a snap on block or a crimp joint, for better security then covered it in heat shrink and protective sleeving.



I then removed the connectors and re arranged the pins, then installed the connector wire and cable tied it in position.




The cargo net is just to stop the head lamp falling off the bike!



Then put it all back in and tidied up. Yes it did work!





All in all it took about an Hour and half, but I did have everything to hand and the proper connecter pin removal tool.

Do it at you own risk though!