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#1
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| Road King Bars
The Road King Classic handlebars are just a tad too far a way for my liking (I've heard this mentioned a couple of times), and I'd like to simply drop them back about an inch. I've sen a thread somewhere in this forum that suggests that this is not quite as easy as I'd expect. Can anybody enlighten me ? |
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#2
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| Re: Road King Bars The classic is the same as the standard around the headlight. You need to remove the headlight nacelle. When that is done it's just a matter of loosening four nuts pull the bars back and re tighten when the position suits you. BUT getting to the bugger that's the part.Getting to the Riser Clamps -Pull the windshield. -Unscrew the bottom screw at the headlight trim ring and pull up to release the ring. -Unscrew all the rubber mounted phillips screws that hold the headlight in place against the nacelle. (A cordless screwdriver in reverse works extremely well here, but don't tighten them that way) -With a 5/16 wrench, unscrew the nut holding the front of the chrome spear trim from inside the nacelle. NOTE: Upon re-assembly, DO NOT over tighten the nut or you will break off the stub. this is just a twist nut, not to be put under a lot of tension..Lift the spear free (its hooked into the riser cover) -With the same wrench, hold the nut from inside the nacelle that secures the front of the riser cover, and unscrew the phillips screw. (careful or you will drop the nut and have to go looking for it) NOTE: Upon re-assembly, the tiny nut and washer are hard to reach to get the screw started. Use masking tape, and tape across a box end wrench, then drop in the nut, and lay on the fender washer. Be sure the masking tape is long enough to contact the washer as well, so everything stays in place. The screw will penetrate the masking tape as you tighten it. -Pop off the Fork Lock cover ring by lightly prying up on it, and remove the two phillips screws that secure the riser cover to the fork lock area. Now the cover is free, and you can access the riser caps. (If you are only repositioning the bars, this is as far as you need to go). Now see this from HarleyHog on PDF format: http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/hhog/rkbarswap.pdf |
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#3
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| Re: Road King Bars
Thanks, I thought it might be a fiddly job. I'll have a go at the weekend.
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#5
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| Re: Road King Bars
OK, ok, I'll get to it |
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#6
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| Re: Road King Bars Quote:
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#7
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Well I've been following the instructions to the letter, and everything is going along swimingly only to fall at the last hurdle ! When popping of the steering lock cover to look for two phillips screws, I find there are no phillips screws, just two flat studs with no obvious way of removing. Any advice? |
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#8
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| Re: Road King Bars
I've just found another post with the answer - Slightly drill the studs then knock in a decent phillips screwdriver to unscrew them. Sounds a bit drastic - why to difficult ? |
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#9
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| Re: Road King Bars
When I did mine the screws just knocked undone with a centre punch. They weren't even tight. The RKC bars are fitted in the factory leaning slightly forward of the fork line, so I brought mine back so that they follow the line of the forks. This makes about 2 inches differece, and I think it makes it look better. You will have to swivel the hand controls around slightly on the bars to get the right feel. I know it's already been mentioned about the tiny nut that holds the headlamp spear on, but be careful...they bust real easy...I know. Brian.
__________________ 100 Anniversary Road King Classic. Was Brian....now known by the Anglia bunch as 'Mr B' Last edited by Mr B; 12-03-2006 at 02:16 PM. |
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#10
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| Re: Road King Bars
Get part number 2933 Size 10-24 X 1/2 star head countersunk. ;) The snap off type screws are bollocks. |
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