Exhaust Stud Snapped Off

[Kiz]

1450 motor, while changing the exhaust one of the exhaust studs snapped off, it's the one at the front on the right slightly hidden by the frame down tube.

I could do with something the size of a dentist drill, is there anyone might be able to help us out.

Cheers,
Kiz.

[kiwidave]

try to double-nut it first.

If there is an inch or so standing proud of the head, place two nuts on (use a die if you have to to make a new thread), then turn the bottom nut (first one on) only and that may well bring it out.

They're not that immovable - I just turned one out taking off my pipes!

Also, if there is enough to work with, try a stud puller socket. But usually these need a fair bit of clearance as they are bulky.

If you have very little exposed stud to work with, try to grind or punch a slot in the head - enough to get a driver bit on.


If that doesn't work, Eazy-Out type extractors are your next course of action but beware the cheap ones, they are very prone to break being so brittle and they are tough as diamond...

PM me if you get in the shit - I have this £60 set of Mac Tools special extractors

http://www.mactools.com/ProductDetai...x?ItemNum=SE10

and they are damn good.....would be happy to lend to a fellow club member if you think you have room to work with the right size bit.

[Phil]

OW! Did it snap off flush with the head? Problem is those studs are hard as woodpecker lips, plus that is an awkward location.
As this happens to us on a fairly frequent basis, we have some tricks.
PM me with the year, make & model, we can go from there if you like.
Daves advise is good, problem is there is no room to work, as you know allready

[Kiz]

Hi Guys,
it's broke off flush with the head, a friend of ours is a mobile bike mechanic, he tried an easy out it's solid, he didn't drill all that much because he was concerned about knackering it up, i have an old exhaust clamp that i have run a 3/8 unf thread into and center drilled a 3/8 unf bolt as a guide, once i clamp it up all being well it should be perfect, i also have a set of spiral easy outs but i have broken this type in the past.
It's the hand drill i need.

Cheers guys,
Kiz.

[S.T.Chapman]

again with Phil here on this one "as hard as woodpecker's lips??" (thats a new one)
the location alone makes it dammed awkward to get at, being behind the down tube like that.
experience has shown me in the past that lady luck never falls your way when these things happen.
the chances are it snapped off flush to the head, and even if it didnt the chances of getting a nut back on have got to be very remote, but if you can one way of perhaps sorting it would be to if a nut would go is to weld the nut on to the stud, but and there always is a big but....
if the stud broke once it will break twice,
caution do not use the brute force method,
use plently of release oil time to let it soak and heat from a torch if you can.

you mention small drill dentist sized? what about a dremmel?

however as you say its behind the down tube?
you probabley will not be able to get in square to the line of the stud and doing it freehand will result in you damaging the softer head.
if that be the case then you might consider removal of the head is truely the only fix and get it removed proffessionaly it may need a helicoil anyway when you finished pissing around, (and pissing around is unless your very lucky what you will end up doing and shedding tears)

sorry but unless your very lucky its going to be a hard job.

as a footnote it would seem prudent to say when fitting these easy to break items thru the exhaust system that copper grease is essential on the threads.

[Kiwi]

I think Jims sell a tool to enable people to drill out the old studs, its listed in zodiac and cci catalogues

[SJC69]

Originally Posted by S.T.Chapman

As a footnote it would seem prudent to say when fitting these easy to break items thru the exhaust system that copper grease is essential on the threads.

Use acorn nut instead of a plain nut too and this will stop the shite going down the thread, especially on the front cylinder. You can even use one 'as well' as on Big Twins as the studs normally have plenty of thread, but alas Sporties tend not to.

This will help even if you have not or are removing the exhaust. I.E. Copper grease or alike on the protruding part of the stud then put the acorn nut on top to keep the shite off.

And always before removing exhaust nuts lots of penetrating oil before starting, the night before or nights before even better.
It's the heat and exposure with a lack of suitable lubrication that seizes them up and as said above brute force is not the job here!

Good luck and go very easy if you attempt to use ezi outs as if it snaps you will most likely need to use spark erosion to get it removed, which will be a head off job!

[Phil]

If it is a rubber mount, disconnect the top stabiliser under the tank. This will allow you to force the engine to the right on its rubber mount & block it. This gives you a straight angle of attack.
Using the old flange is a good idea as it centres it up.

Last resort, weld a nut *onto* it.

[Kiz]

We tried welding a nut on Monday night, that's what caused it to break off flush.