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#1
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| gear selector spring
hi new here but have a problem so hope anyone can help ive got a 1340 evo flhs that the selector spring has broken on 5 speed box had top off can see spring but can it be changed without stipping box can not see anyway of getting it out has selector hits gears hope someone can help thanks anyway chubb |
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#2
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| Re: gear selector spring
Sadly to replace this £1 part ... yes you do have to remove it all. The mainshaft bearing inner race has to come off then the trap door and all the internal shafts and gears slide out as one unit. You can then get to the shifter shaft and spring fairly easily. You WILL need puller/re-installer tool for the mainshaft race. But yer lucky.......I did a little searching on an online archive and found a step-by-step guide to doing this. No experience myself - another advantage of the bulletproof older four-speed tranny! Good luck. <START HERE> The tranny has two covers; a top cover and a side (trapdoor) cover. When you pull the top cover and remove the shifter cam, you'll probably see that there's no way to get at the shifter pawl to remove the shifter arm without pulling out the gear set. You'll have to go through the trapdoor. The trapdoor is actually in two parts, sort of like a cover on a cover. The outer cover lets you get at your clutch cable and throwout bearing without messing with the gear set. Pull that first and disconnect your clutch cable. This should also give you access to the shifter fork shaft so you can pull your shifter forks. I'd recommend taking a piece of wire and running it through the forks and flagging one of them with a piece of masking tape. It's not that big a deal, but it can get pretty frustrating if you get turned around on which fork goes where. When you pull the trapdoor itself, assuming all the top parts are now tucked safely out of the way, the gearset should slide right out. Go ahead and check the bearings for any wear. As long as you're this far in, it's no major trick to press out the old bearings and press in new ones if you notice any wear. You don't want to have to go through this again on the off chance that a chunk of spring found its way into a bearing. Run a magnet around the inside of the case. This should pick up any broken spring bits. Clean out the case with a rag and inspect the rag for metal parts. Look at your gear teeth and make sure there's no wear. There really shouldn't be. Harley tranny gears are hard to break. If you have a lathe you can throw you shifter fork shaft on it to ensure that it's true. A bent shifter fork shaft can be an exciting proposition, but you probably don't have anything to worry about unless you discover a toasted bearing. The wobbling of the gearset on a bad bearing can bend the forks and the shaft. Now that you have your entire transmission gutted, you can get to the little $2 part that needs replacing. There are 2 springs. Replace them both. You may have to press the shifter pawl off the arm to get the little spring on. The shifter pawl assembly is like oragami; there's nineteen different ways to fold it, but only one of them makes a bird. Don't look at the picture in the manual, look at the picture in the parts catalog. The parts catalog is your friend. If you get a spring on backwards, everything will seem to go together fine, but the shifter pawl will want to grab the wrong way. Clean all your gasket surfaces and put everything back in the way it came out. The shifter forks can seem a little tricky, but they only go in one way. If you feel you have to force it, you're doing it wrong. They either drop and slide right in or you have your gearset misaligned. Slide the gears back and forth until the fork drops into place. As long as you're torn this far down, you may want to check your seals for seepage. If there's any at all, go ahead and replace them. Make sure that the little membrane on the main tranny seal that seats agains the shaft is not damaged or folded or it will leak. If you've never done a tranny before, give yourself 2 days. Realistically, if you have all the parts you'll need in advance, you can knock it out in about 5 or 6 hours. The important thing is to go slow and not get frustrated. I'm sure an actual mechanic can do it faster. |
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#3
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| Re: gear selector spring
thanks alot i did think that the side case or trap door would let me in that way but just wanted to no for sure i will order the springs and have a go at it has i am a hgv mechanic not bike but its all only nut and bolts but still scary when i have to ride it afterwards thanks alot for your help anyway chubb |
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#4
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| Re: gear selector spring
Bloody `ell Dave nice job m8. Don`t forget to adjust the shifter pawl before you put the inner primary back on, makes for much smoother shifting. The most common reason that the stupid little spring breaks to start with is incorrect adjustment putting pressure on it. Oh & while you are that far into it replace all the seals & gaskets, would be foolish not to, esp. the little shifter shaft seal.
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#5
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| Re: gear selector spring
As I said Phil I can't take the credit........... I just knew the basics. This is never a job I have had to do on mine, obviously. but the query comes up regularly on HED and it was in their archives |
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#6
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| Re: gear selector spring
have rebuilt the box on my glide dead easy just follow the factory manual compared with a 4 speed sporty box the 5 speed is easy |
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#7
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| Re: gear selector spring
yup everything has to come off ,whilst in there m8, done it two yrs ago now,change the little spring on top of the gear shaft pawl as well,;)
__________________ Imagination is more important than Knowledge.knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world. |
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