Replacing steering head bearings

[Roy]

Hello

I have a 2006 fxdbi which needs new head bearings. Has anyone done this?

Reason I ask is I want some advise on 'other things' that may be worth while replacing at the same time. I was thinking as well as the head bearing kits (with seats), of also replacing the torx screws that hold the fork legs in place.

Anything else, or does this cover things?

Also, apparently there is a star shaped nut, underneath the top clamp, which tightens down the bearings. Do I need a special spanner for this? If so, where can I get one?

Any tips etc, also appreciated

Cheers, Roy

[RobK]

You may be an old hand at this but if not have a look at Garage Night

Their latest episode is on changing head bearings and has a few tips. Not Harley specific but useful anyway.

HTH,
Rob.

[Roy]

Rob, thanks, good viewing (I'd never of thought for looking for this) ;-)


If anyone knows about the star shaped nut, I am all ears.

[Limey_Dave]

It's just a drift or piece of bar you tap with hammer.
You need to do "fall away" test for setting.

How did you decide they needed replacing?

[Roy]

Dave

With your help actually. I raised a previous badly spelt post called "off rattle" (where I meant "Odd Rattle"), you pointed me to a previous post that indicated one cause would be a well known issue with the washer that goes under the top nut. Oxford HD (who have proper SE trained mechanics) went to fit the washer today and found that when they tightened up the bearing adjustment star nut under the top clam there was the expected catching on the grooves in the knackered bearing cups.

So, conclusion = bearings and cups for replacement.

Thanks for the new tip by the way, puts my mind at rest that I don't need to invest millions in a special tool. The fall away test I understand, however should I do it with the fork legs and wheel in place and then pop off the top clamp for any adjustment???

[banquo]

Sounds like you need a Repair Manual Roy...

Fall away procedure is in there (at least it's in mine for the FXST), and it's done with the front end fully assembled. They do recommend removing any cables, etc. which could pull, and affect the result.

There is a body of opinion, to which many subscribe, which says the fall away test is so unscientific as to be completely worthless. If you look on HTT, there are many who treat the head bearings like car wheel bearings, tightening them up to zero clearance, and then backing off a quarter turn. Logical, and they say it works.

However, if the new top washer is used, my understanding is that it's simply a torque setting, and the fall way test is no longer required...?

I'm really surprised that your bearings need replaced on an '06, unless they've never seen a grease gun, or you have 100,000 miles on the clock. These bearings are lightly loaded, and with routine maintenance, should last a long, long time...

•

2006-2007 Dyna models

•

2008 and earlier FXDWG

•

2008 and earlier FX Softail models

•

2008 and earlier VRSC models

If customer is experiencing any of the following conditions,
perform the service procedure for the appropriate model as
explained below.

•

Looseness in front end

•

Loss of clamp load on upper steering stem nut

•

Front end clunk

Dyna and FX Softail Models

See list of affected motorcycles above. If any of the affected
Dyna or FX Softail motorcycles are experiencing front end
looseness, order kit number 45727-07. See STEERING
HEAD WASHER KIT INSTRUCTION SHEET (-J04469) to
install the kit.

Tip: Apparently, the fixing kit consists of a washer and an instruction sheet:
a. Part 45727-08 for the required washer

b. Part 45740-07 for the KIT which includes 42727-08 and an instruction sheet.

It's £1.50 for the washer from Guernsey, and £5.50 for the washer and Instruction Sheet. Four quid for a bit of paper?

Apparently, the instruction sheet that tells you to replace the washer and to tighten steering stem nut to 70 to 80 ft-lbs, so if you have a clunk or looseness in your front end, only buy washer 45727-08, and use it to replace the lock washer that bends into the steering stem nut. Tighten the steering stem nut to 70-80 ft.lbs.

[Ming the Merciless]

Originally Posted by banquo

These bearings are lightly loaded, and with routine maintenance, should last a long, long time...

I thought the same until I chatted with a workmate who commutes on a Honda Deauville - it's less than a year old and still under warranty. He reported a front end problem to his dealer, who diagnosed that new head bearings were required, as the others were shot after 8,000 miles.

The dealer said that due to the state of the roads, head bearings do not last very long. But I was staggered to learn that this was classed as a consumable and would not therefore be covered by the warranty. I told my mate to argue and he subsequently did get it fixed FOC, but I remain surprised by the whole episode.

[Roy]

Must admit I agree to being surprised about the duration of the head bearings, however after 20k miles Oxford HD have declared them shot.

The roads in Gloucester, Wilts and Oxford that see most of my mileage are pretty damn rough so a minor amount of slack would have created the problem.

The washer kit repair has been done. The steering head bearings are ordered, Limey Dave has told me about some of the tools I can hire to make the job easier. Hope their available

[banquo]

Hmmm. Mines done 30,000 now, and I see I'm supposed to strip the front end and inspect them... Job for the winter...

Hope yours goes OK.

[Roy]

Did this today, quite straightforward.

Borrowed a tool to knock the races out from HDRC, the whole thing did fit however managed to use half of the split collect and get the races out.

The old races had heavy scoring in them, must of been lose/knackered for a time. Not bad for a 20k mile 2006 streetbob ...