Reach seat

[midget]

Thinking about fitting a reach seat to the Dyna low( I must be shrinking) has anyone got one fitted and did it make any real difference, any comments before I spend my cash.

[HogHog]

Hey midget.

Is this so that you can reach the forward controls?

I had a couple of blocks made in stainless steel the shape of a Z to bring the controls 2 1/4 inches back towards the rider, but remaining in line along the running lines of the bike.

Then I had a shorter stainless steel brake bar made and it's all fine now.

If yours is the same problem I can take a few photo's for you if you want.?

[HogHog]

I meant to add -

that way your centre of gravity remains where the designers placed it.

[midget]

I would be very very interested in the pic's .No I have mid controls on the Dyna ,but have forwards to fit hence the question .At the moment the hi way pegs that are fitted are "just " that bit far that it makes it uncomfortable on long runs.And that is were the forwards go it seems! So the seat was an option worth looking at.

[HogHog]

Originally Posted by midget

I would be very very interested in the pic's .No I have mid controls on the Dyna ,but have forwards to fit hence the question .At the moment the hi way pegs that are fitted are "just " that bit far that it makes it uncomfortable on long runs.And that is were the forwards go it seems! So the seat was an option worth looking at.

OK Here goes:

The first picture is taken looking down the downtube to the fixing position of the standard forward controls. The Torx at the bottom of the picture is where you would bolt standard controls.

The second picture is taken from the side of the bike. Again, the Torx is the Standard postion for forwards, the domed nuts is my position, 2 1/4 inches back towards the rider.

The third picture is taken from below and shows the setup plus the new Stainless Brake Bar.

The fourth picture is of the gear selector. I have had a "Scallop" taken out of it so that it clears the engine casing. I had a much smaller one taken out at the top just for effect.

The stainles blocks, brake bar, and scallops were made by Maurice of MCE Engineering of Dundee.

It means that I still sit in position the engineers designed but can now reach the brake..!!

If its of interest then I can give you some more info and dimensions.

And all viewers of these pictures - yes I know my bike's dirty, but that just shows why I'm a member of the RIDERS club. It'll get washed sometime before 2010.

[midget]

First off thanks for such a quick reply and the pic's have answered a couple of my questions.I will now have to sit down and do some costings.I'm on the site most days and the information that is out there is mind blowing ,thanks again I also like your little bit on the bottom of the posts.

[HogHog]

Originally Posted by midget

First off thanks for such a quick reply and the pic's have answered a couple of my questions.I will now have to sit down and do some costings.I'm on the site most days and the information that is out there is mind blowing ,thanks again I also like your little bit on the bottom of the posts.

Cheers - I was £150 for the Stainless blocks and £35 for the brake bar, and he didn't charge for the little bit of scalloping.

Although he's got all manner of computer and human controlled machines, he's a "real engineer" none of this mucking about programming machines - when he's making custom bits for bikes he sets up the steel and works the tools manually - quite educational watching really.

Anyway, off now but if you need anymore I'll be back on the site Monday.

[midget]

Any more info and dim's that you have would indeed help ,because I think this is the route I will take over the winter.Once again cheers.

[HogHog]

Originally Posted by midget

Any more info and dim's that you have would indeed help ,because I think this is the route I will take over the winter.Once again cheers.

Couldn't find my originals so took a few measurements and sketched up this for you. Remember to read it in conjunction with the photographs or it won't make sense. The angle will be measured off of your frame, and is the angle between the forward controls mounting block and horizontal. (may differ from mine)

Best thing to do is to mock one up in wood, modifying as you go, then dimension the result for fabrication. (Can't find my prototype or I would have posted it to you) It's pretty tight if you have Vance and Hynes pipes.

I would get a new brake bar made up rather than shortening the existing. That way you can put it back to "normal" if you sell it to a taller person.

Hope this is useful and not too confusing. Much easier when you can show/describe face to face. If you need anything else, let me know.

[midget]

Cheers Sam