Auto Electrician advice needed

[panheadpete]

Sorry to disagree Roger but we're not really disagreeing are we?

"or you could use a switchover relay..."

but your description and diagram are far more useful than wot I said
Cheers,
Pete

[Roger]

Originally Posted by panheadpete

Sorry to disagree Roger but we're not really disagreeing are we?

"or you could use a switchover relay..."

but your description and diagram are far more useful than wot I said
Cheers,
Pete

Absolutely not, but I just prefer the simplicity of a single relay. To be honest, I didn't take in your comment on switchover relays

[Ukkid76]

So affectivaly the high beam to dip switch just becomes an on/off switch switching the relay on or off!!

Yes I can see that!! and I was disagreeing with you!! sorry I've now been educated!!

Thanks

[Roger]

Two relays is a perfectly good solution, it just takes up a bit more room

[Holmsey]

Thanks for info, I thought there were relays that would switch from one output to another so one doing the dip and main, that's what I will use.
never thought of them being crap, that's the problem with going on e-bay when on planet strongbow.... ;o).
Thanks for the wiring diagram, I will find that useful. Cheers

[Limey_Dave]

Relay MR15 looks like it will do the job.

VWP - relays

I've been thinking of using one of these on the RK.
I've got the standard headlight bulb but wondered if the reason for the switchgear sometimes going south is if using the Pass Lights,when you go to main beam,the dip switch is switching them aswell as the headlight.

[panheadpete]

Only thing I'd like to add is that using a single relay will involve passing all the current through the ignition switch, another possible source of voltage drop or premature failure, although the Harley ones seem pretty robust.
Cheers,
Pete

[Limey_Dave]

I thought that using a change-over relay switched by the dip switch meant that only the (low) switching current went through the original loom and that would be less than with the original settup.

[softail898]

Originally Posted by Limey_Dave

I thought that using a change-over relay switched by the dip switch meant that only the (low) switching current went through the original loom and that would be less than with the original settup.

Correct. The current to operate the Relay is Far, Far lower than the current to operate the Dip or Main beam bulbs. So the current that went from the Battery, through the Wiring Loom and the Dip/Main Switch to the Bulb no longer takes that route. That is why you have to run a New wire (Feed) from the Battery, fused near the Battery, that is able to handle the Current required by your new Bulb or Bulbs. In Rogers Diagram, the RED Wire from the Battery that has the Fuse is the NEW Wire needed. Don't guess what sort of wire, you have to work out the Current Rating needed to handle the Wattage of your setup. One Bulb or Two and the Wattage of the Bulb(s) and this will tell you the Amperage of the New Wire. If you can't/don't know how to work this out just ask. If this New Wire is not able to handle the Current then it WILL get HOT and possibly start a FIRE.
P.S. Dont forget to upgrade the Earth (Black) Wire on you Bulb(s) as well. This larger Current flows through the Bulb(s) and back to Earth (the -Ve post on the Battery).

[softail898]

Originally Posted by Roger

Sorry to disagree with your disagreement guys, but you are wrong . You only need one relay. You use an automotive changeover type, so when the coil is not energised you get power to the low beam from terminal 87a. When you energize the coil, it switches to 87, and the main beam.

By the way Roger, your Setup will not work...you have an Earth on both sides of the Relay Coil, the Relay won't operate!