Internal throttle greif!

[che]

Rarely do i get so frustrated when i'm bike building, but fitting an internal throttle has me biting at the bit. Now, i bought an after market internal throttle assembly, one with a roller and a spiral mechanism. I've fitted that no real problems, my problem is what happens with the 'cable', when it comes out of the handlebars between the risers. It's a very sharp bend, that is compounded with the fact the throttle is fitted to Ape hangers, so two more sharp bends. By the time it gets to the carb S&S super E (no return cable) it is not very smooth and very heavy.

What sort of cable is used on an internal throttle? is just the inner cable used in the bars and what happens on that sharp bend where the cable comes out of the bars. Any help, would be greatly appreciated and my well stop me from smashing something when i throw out my teddy.

kim

[Cloudy but dry]

Greetings che. welcome to the pleasures of pan owner ship!
When you open the throttle does it push the cable or pull it?

[che]

'Paperplane' it pulls the cable, remember it's not a standard pan throttle (after-market) like i said the throttle mech, is fine just wanna know what happens with the cable.

[the_french_owl]

Hi Che,

Internal H-D throttle can only be used with single core piano wire, i.e NOT with multicore cable as found on most other bikes. It's much more rigid and is normally fitted without return spring, throttle stays where you set it, ideal to wave other people with the right hand on the road!!! Also, the cable outer sleeve screws inside a small round fitting that is fixed inside the bars with a set screw accessible from the outside, in front of throttle. If you haven't got that bit, you're in trouble...

Patrick

[Cloudy but dry]

greetings che. stock pan bars have long slow radius bends on them to assist the action of the cable, if your apes have sharp bends it certainly wont help. Was it difficult to push the cable thru in the first place?
The stock outer cable runs up to the twist grip and is held in place by a cotton reel shaped sleeve which in turn is held by a grub screw thru the bars. Is that like yours?
Stock bars have a slot almost as wide as the risers where the cable passes thru to a corresponding slot on the top yoke, allowing a nice slow curve on the cable. Tight bends on the cable will give you stiff action.
Did you grease the inner piano wire before you pushed it thru? Likewise the twistgrip worm spiral and pin assembly.
Does the carb have a return spring on ? This provides even more resistance to the cable
Same applies to the adv/ret cable and twistgrip on the left bar.

hope this is of some help.

[Cloudy but dry]

OOps. me and french owl typing at the same time!

[the_french_owl]

...not to worry!!!... same minds probably...

Patrick

[panster]

Hi Che, I use an aftermarket Pan outer cable, I cut the outer just before it
goes under the tank ,put a british inline adjuster in and then use a piece of old evo throttle cable down to my CV carb.
For the inner, I just cut the top nipple off of any old, (long enough), evo throttle cable and connect it up, it pokes into the plunger part of the twistgrip
and is held by a grub screw.It works fine...Not quite as light as a stock external cable, but returns ok by carb spring, no problem.
I have had one cable break in 35,000 miles on my Pan.
Good luck,
J.

[che]

Thank you very much guys, as usual very helpful. PANSTER, i was coming round to something like you suggested, you will know what a bugger it is to fit, getting lenght exactly right, the in-line adjuster is the answer. cheers