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Vintage & Classic Era
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#11
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| Re: Clutch Thanks guys, much more interesting than what's going on in the member section. I think my first move is to fit a ram jett (help with the drag) then put in a different set of clutch springs. After talking to jamie (panster, or should i say 'shovelster' you heard it here first, nudge nudge. ) he thought the old footclutch springs might still be in place... interesting. Will think about the other suggestions if this doesn't work.
__________________ ![]() I ain't no communist, but i've been in the red all my life!... 1973 flh shovel & 1960 Panhead barhopper. |
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#12
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| Re: Clutch Che I run a mousetrap eliminator on my pan, which makes it work exactly like a shovel. I use stock plates and springs, big fix bearing and aluminium dome as i have open belt primary. It took ages of fiddling to get it right, but it now works better than my shovel, which has ram jett retainer and 5 finger basket.
__________________ Panhead Boris |
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#13
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| Re: Clutch hi,here my advice,based on lots of time sorting out other peoples problems.the ram jet retainer works well for stopping the drag,as does the long bearing conversion for the clutch hub [fiddly to fit,but works good,tho not essential] you say you have the alloy pressure plate,i m assuming you mean the type that just replaces thre stock steel one.these usually cause more problems than they are worth as they are thicker than the stock item where the springs fit and by the time you get the adjusting nuts on ie 3,5 or 10 depending on which type of clutch centre you use, the springs,also depending on which type [early or late,one is shorter forget which is which,sorry,by the way you only need heavy duty coil springs if you have a heavy duty motor], can tend to be almost coilbound before you even try to pull in the clutch lever ie limiting the lift of the pressure plate = heavy feel.this can be made even worse if you also have the thick aftermarket alloy spring plate.if you have a stock pressure and spring plate i would fit these first and see if things improve.i usually end up throwing the custom alloy stuff on the scrap pile,currently on my own pan i am evaluating a diaphragm spring conversion kit that i am using with a foot clutch.it feels very light and only needs light pressure on the pedal to disengage,i have about 350 miles on it at present with no problems.it uses an evo clutch spring and a special pressure plate and costs about £140.it works with alloy primaries or open,not sure if it would work with tin primarys tho as it may have clearance problems against the derby cover,hope this is of help |
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#14
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| Re: Clutch by the way,if you decide to get a mousetrap you also need the correct clutch release arm and linkage,genuine are more durable if you can get one as i have seen many aftermarket ones that have crap build quality and they usually explode into lots of bits,by the way just viewed the pics of your most excellent pan,cheers |
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#15
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| Re: Clutch Thanks a lots guys. Just got 'ram jett' i assume it goes behind the clutch plates???? it has also got a rebated side, which side does that go, facing out or inwards. Thanks again. kim
__________________ ![]() I ain't no communist, but i've been in the red all my life!... 1973 flh shovel & 1960 Panhead barhopper. |
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#16
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| Re: Clutch Rebated side faces gearbox. The ram jett has 3 positions ,A,B,C, a bit like shims, take the clutch plates out, slide the ram jett over the clutch hub dowels with position A holes over the threaded dowels,( the ones you put the rebatted clutch nuts on) . Slide the circlips down the threaded dowels until they engage in thier slots. That is in effect the ram jett fitted. Now grab the clutch drum top an bottom ( making sure the primary chain is slack) see if there is any play or wobble of the drum on the hub. If none, leave the ram jett as it is, and re-fit the clutch in the normal way. If there is play , remove the Ram jett ( getting the circlips off is a real bitch) and rotate so that the B holes are over the threaded dowels, and repeat the process. If there's still play use the C holes. Simple 'innit. The ram jett does NOT aid lever pressure, basically all it does is stop the clutch drum "wobbling " against the clutch hub when you pull the lever in therefore making the clutch drag. Nice pics by the way, particularly like "town an country " rear tyre , ideal for exiting muddy rally sites ! |
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#17
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| Re: Clutch The Ramjett only works as advertised with the long bearing kit to take the `wobble` out of the clutch shell. Then correct adjustment, ignoring the the manual & doing it by feel will make it work. Pm sent.
__________________ |
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#18
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| Re: Clutch Thanks so much guys... i shall go to the ball (well, east midlands rally). New clutch springs, oiled cable, ram jett and adjusted, and i have a none grabbing lightweight clutch, and thats down to the help i get on here. Thanks again.
__________________ ![]() I ain't no communist, but i've been in the red all my life!... 1973 flh shovel & 1960 Panhead barhopper. |
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#19
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| Re: Clutch Sweet ! have fun. ![]() |