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Vintage & Classic Era
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#1
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| shifting troubles revisited
Im presently getting close to the air thats just past the tether, now it appears im still having shifting troubles around the first second neutral area, shifts into first no probs but sometimes when i want second it will only go as far as neutral and then when i want neutral it will only go into second or first. my next trouble is the clutch now im slightly down on digits on my left hand and as a result my hand is killing me so has anyone got a solution to my shifting troubles? and has anyone got a tip to make the clutch lighter. im starting to think that you should never meet your heroes, i have wanted a shovel like mine is now since i was fifteen and im finding the enjoyment to pain in the arse level heavily biased in favour of arse
__________________ If the neighbours whinged about the standard pipes i wonder what they will make of the straight through drags |
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#2
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
Did the Clutch dragging get sorted? It is important that the shifter forks are correctly ajusted on the shafts. This needs the top of the gearbox removing, & the use of a special tool. If you have a `Flat top` four speed, make sure that the bushing on the banana shaped lever on the trans top is not worn out. It is easy to tell. Look at the shifting mechanism on the top side of the gearbox while moving the gear shift lever up & down. If it all moves smoothly its good. If it wobbles around................It isn`t. The only way to make the clutch lighter the way it is, is to loosen the ajuster nuts EQUALLY on the pressure plate as much as you can without slipping. There are some levers available that are angled for better leverage, & give a lighter pull. Good luck.
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#3
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
Do as Phil said and loosen the nuts off as much as possable a clutch that will allow you to kickstart without slipping will normally hold when in use. Now when i first got my shovel it dragged all the time and getting nuteral was a nightmare but i could adjust the clutch to change gear and get nuteral no probs but then it slipped in normal use ,the clutch lever i had when i first got the bike just clamped arround the bars but later i put a clutch lever with a high beam switch gear built into it and low and behold the clutch was fantastic ,it allowed me to pull the clutch in further as the lever was further out to start with due to the clutch/switch houseing and set up normally ive never had a problem since ![]() dont know what lever youv'e got on your bike but just check out the lever for movement![]() hope this helps
__________________ "Tune in turn on and drop out"
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#4
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
will have a peak tomorrow at the nuts then, im sure i had solved the drag but the bite is when the lever is almost all the way out, i always confuse myself with clutch activation, especially at stupid o clock at night, the lever is a performance machine jobby by the way, no switchgear involved
__________________ If the neighbours whinged about the standard pipes i wonder what they will make of the straight through drags |
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#5
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
All sorts of possibilities here; Does the clutch lever (handlebar) go from an eighth inch gap to five-eighths at the cable when you pull it in? That should be enough cable movement. At the other end, the clutch lever on top of the gearbox should have about one-half inch clearance from the starter motor when pushed fully forward by hand; this is adjusted using the screw adjuster in the clutch centre. Then there's the clutch pressure screws, your usual 3; they need a balance between too tight and not enough, as well as needing to be balanced so that the pressure plate doesn't wobble when you spin the clutch with it dis-engaged. If the adjusting nuts are too tight, you get a very heavy clutch and can't find neutral. If they're too loose, it slips. If they're uneven, or the springs are soft/short, you get all the above. You really, REALLY need a genuine Shovel manual, plus some patience and lateral thinking; I'll be glad to quote from mine or copy the pages to you if you get stuck. I can operate the clutch on my Pan with 2 fingers - leaving the other two free for car drivers. Cheers, Pete PS not to mention a stiff/rusty/damaged/badly routed cable.
__________________ 'It's not the speed that matters it's the direction that you go' Last edited by panheadpete; 19-06-2009 at 01:50 AM. Reason: Still thinking |
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#6
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
im just about to pop into the garage but just found this link No more clutch dragging - Shovelhead Forum does this make any sense?
__________________ If the neighbours whinged about the standard pipes i wonder what they will make of the straight through drags |
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#7
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited Quote:
Indded, that's yet another possible problem - if the whole clutch, as opposed to just the centre, moves when you pull in the lever then that amount of travel is wasted. Aggravating, isn't it? Don't be disheartened; may owners have spent much time and effort to find these solutions but once sorted it'll be fine. Cheers, Pete
__________________ 'It's not the speed that matters it's the direction that you go' |
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#8
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
I thought that you had a Ramjett & long bearing kit fitted?
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#9
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
nope i have no idea whats inside that primary, and still dont after i went out today and found brake fluid all over the front wheel
__________________ If the neighbours whinged about the standard pipes i wonder what they will make of the straight through drags |
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#10
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| Re: shifting troubles revisited
Pop me a first class ticket in the post & I`ll be over & fix you all up .What part of the Country are you in? You can google search the Ramjett & long bearing set up. I believe that it is the ONLY way to go with your type of clutch set up. If you don`t find the information let me know & I can send you some. Best part is that it is not expensive.
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