Help with wiring please

[Paul1]

WLA almost finished now but having probs with the wiring of the headlight and horn, not sure if it is something to do with the fact that I am not putting the blackout light back, I seem to have 3 spare wires that were originally fitted to the bakerlite terminal block, but I have replaced original headlight/horn mounting bracket with a civvy one !

Any advice would be greatly appreciated ! I have tried doing it from the wiring diagrams in th TM manual but no luck !!!

[kevscrivener]

Limey Dave's your man for this! Send him a PM, you'll find him in the "forum User-list" under "community" at the top of the page. I'm sure he has a diagram for your bike.

You're guessing right, BTW, it is all to do with the "blackout" wiring ; however never rewired one meself from scratch so you're best asking Dave about it.

[dodgyloner]

Hi Paul

Electricals aren't my strong point but in the absence of Limey Dave here goes......

From the sound of it the 3 wires you have left after removing the blackout light are:-

Black - this is the wire from switch terminal 1 to the blackout light - if I'm right you don't need this one anymore.

Red - this is from switch terminal 1.

Red/Black - this is the wire from the handlebar toggle switch.

Connect the Red and Red/Black wires together.

The horn shouldn't be giving you problems this is a Green wire from switch terminal 4 on one side and a Black wire to the horn switch on the handlebar.

There is a civvy bakelite terminal plate you can fit or you can just hide the wires.

Hope this is useful.

I'm starting to hoard parts for a Mark V WLA myself, so if you're looking for a home for all that stuff you've stripped off give me a shout and I'm sure we can come to an agreement. What area of the country are you from?

Karl

[kevscrivener]

Karl's description is pretty much how I remember it.

As for the horn; might sound daft but have you tested it off the bike? If it's been sat for a bit it could have stuck, and you may well need to fiddle with the adjuster screw on the back, turn it outwards a couple of turns and work inwards till you get the tone right.

[chilly]

Don't you mean "bang it wiv an ammer" Kev

[kevscrivener]

Originally Posted by chilly

Don't you mean "bang it wiv an ammer" Kev

Not on 45 electrics Chilly, 6 volt hammers are virtually impossible to get hold of these days!

[Paul1]

Problem I got is all the wiring on the WLA is the cloth type covering so, can't really distinguish between them, thought I had marked them up on dismantling but obviously not enough !!!

Oh well will have another go today hopefully, keep you posted.

Karl, will keep you in mind if i decide to offload military parts, I live in Hindhead, Surrey, whereabouts are you based ?

Cheers, Paul.

[chilly]

Have you got one of those little electrical test meters Paul,analogue or digital will do,only around a tenner,well worth the money,such a versatile bit of kit ?

To test a wire that is fully enclosed i just made up a test wire to fit the meter ,and then fitted a thinnish needle to the other end,i could then just push the needle into the cable outer to get a reading.

Just by using the continuity or DC settings makes tracing wiring so much easier,even i can do it (most times) ,and electrics are the work of the devil for me

Chilly

[Paul1]

Managed to get the headlight working, it turned out to be a bad earth, i think due to the powder coating, so put a new earth wire back to the terminal under the seat.

However completely beaten by the horn though, checked it works by connecting straight to the battery and all ok, have checked the switch live wire to the horn & that is ok, but according to the TM manual wiring diagram, it shows 1 black wire from the horn switch which connects to the other terminal on the horn, but for some reason mine has 2 black wires from the horn switch & no matter which way i wire these, no luck......

Maybe i should just order a new horn switch with 1 wire and fit it & hope for the best.

Any ideas ???

[chilly]

Is one the live and the other an earth wire ?