45 Gas valve alignment tool

[Joecr]

I'm new to the forums and a friend of Kiz who pointed me here. I've recently bought a 1943 WLC that was kitted out as a bobber. I'm putting it back to a standard bike and one of the things I need to do is check the alignment of the gas valve holes before I line and paint the tank.
Kiz suggested I ask here if anyone has the correct tool for this that they would be willing to let me borrow as buying a new one for a one off job seems a bit extravagant. I will of course, pay all postage and give a donation to the owners project fund or a charity of their choice.
Thanks in advance, Joe.

[Natra]

joe, there are many tools availabe free hire for club members...may be a good way of getting the tools you need..join up.

[dodgyloner]

Hi Joe

Unfortunately this tool isn't in the club tool bank - or wasn't the last time I asked. Don't know of anyone who has one either.

The tool adjusts the vertical (height) and horizontal (line up) of the two holes at the top and bottom of the tank by twisting and bending the metal. Here's a possible way without the tool.

Screw a fuel rod that you know to be straight to the lower valve, insert through the bottom of the tank and hand tighten as far as you can without forcing or bending. The rod will poke cleanly out of the top hole without touching the sides if its all lined up horizontally.

If its not you can "adjust" by using a punch or chisel and a big hammer where the bottom insert is welded to the tank - remove the rod first so you don't bend it.

A sharp rap will do to start with - a millimetres difference at the bottom translates into about 2cm at the top so go easy. If I remember rightly the rod position will bend towards the point you strike. A few raps in various places and try fits of the rod and you'll soon get the hang of it. The worst thing you can do is hit it too hard...

Vertical line up is a bit more forgiving - as long as the valve closes fully when its all fully assembled its ok. If not adjust by hitting insert square on with hammer until it does...

Hope this makes sense.

[Limey_Dave]

The club now has the tool,but the loan scheme is open to CLUB members only,not FORUM members.
The cost is only the postage both ways.

Kiz can check the tool list for you,there's a good few in there for 45's,so membership may be a good investment.

As above,you can try the "hit and miss" method but if the vertical adjustment is out,you may be able to turn on and off,but may not be able to get reserve.

[chilly]

Hello Joe and welcome.

Wouldn't be your bike i saw on the Real Classic site by any chance,great project you have there mate if thats the one.

Chilly

[Limey_Dave]

Originally Posted by chilly

Hello Joe and welcome.

Wouldn't be your bike i saw on the Real Classic site by any chance,great project you have there mate if thats the one.

Chilly

I can't find it,any chance of a link please?

[Joecr]

I was thinking of joining the club at a later date but I've decided to do it now, my payment is already sent.
Chilly, yes that's the bike on the RC site.
Here's the pic.
Joe

[chilly]

Looking good mate,welcome to the Club .

[Limey_Dave]

Nice.
We need more flatheads in the club,most are round,and very shiney.
Where did you get your fenders and how was the fit.
With a WLC front end,if the front ones not right,it's a pig to fit.

[Joecr]

I got the fenders from 45 Parts Depot in the States, quick delivery and great service from Kurt and Wendy, I will definately use them again for the rest of the bits.
It's funny you should ask about the fenders as I'm tweaking them up today (just stopped for a cuppa and sarnie). The back one fits a treat apart from the bracket that the bottom of the battery box bolts to, but that's easy sorted. The front one is a little bit trickier in that I've had to remove the botton stay rivets to allow the stay to drop down the fender about 1.5 inches, I'm also going to have to lenghten the stay about 1 inch so that it touches the back of the inside of the fender.
I've just taken this pic, you might be able to see what I need to do to the front fender. The hole in the back of the stay is now exactly 1.5 inches lower than it's original postion and the stay needs to go back to the fender 1 inch, hope that makes sense.
Joe