Fitting handlebars

[Strawhead]

Help required!!! if possible

My cousin has just got hold of a set of 12" apes for his springer. looking to fit them next weekend!

The bars are not "knurled" so we will need to fix them solidly some how and was just wandering i any one has any helpful hints??

we are hoping to do internal wiring and are also looking for some extended cables. I believe the only options are either complete wires with buttons or the budget route is trailer wire with a soldering iron

Any thoughts

SH

[dantheman]

Originally Posted by Strawhead

Help required!!! if possible

My cousin has just got hold of a set of 12" apes for his springer. looking to fit them next weekend!

The bars are not "knurled" so we will need to fix them solidly some how and was just wandering i any one has any helpful hints??

we are hoping to do internal wiring and are also looking for some extended cables. I believe the only options are either complete wires with buttons or the budget route is trailer wire with a soldering iron

Any thoughts

SH

what u could do m8, is drill bttm clamps and bttm of bars, and put pegs in, as for internal wiring ,u could use alarm wires ,very thin and well up to the job, failing that contact vehicle wiring products they do all the wiring u need ,have fun;)

[Chiefy]

Do some good sketches of where each wire goes before you take them out of the plug.

Extending the wiring is simple if you can solder, but make sure each connection is well insulated before installing into the bars.

Apparently Telephone wiring is real skinny and works well.

KiwiDave did a write up on "pegging" handlebars, can't remember if it was on here or in the Quin.

[S.T.Chapman]

Originally Posted by Chiefy

KiwiDave did a write up on "pegging" handlebars, can't remember if it was on here or in the Quin.

pegging as its referred or pinning as i prefer, can be achieved very easily.
take the lower clamp away from the top yolk by removing the bolt from beneath going up through the top yolk which bolts up into the lower clamp. (take the lower clamp off)
look at the bolt I think it maybe 3/8 unf? nip along to a fasteners factor such as Infast (check yellow pages) and acquire 2 grub screws the same. wind these up the inner of the clamp till the tip which is hardened (this is what they are used for) just protrudes into the space the bar will sit, the rest is pretty obvious, offer up the bar's in situ with the clamps loosely in position through the top yolk again, and then clamp the bar's using the top yolk.
if this suits then take all off as one and tighten the grubs till they bite. then replace all into the top yolk.

All credit goes to Kiwi Dave for this with the exception of the use of grub screws.

[Strawhead]

Fantastic,

thank you for the suggestions, i feel all prepared now

will let you know how it goes

with thanks

SH

[S.T.Chapman]

as for wiring be tad careful, telephone or alarm type wire may look ok but consider that you will be pulling them round some tight bends and usually that type of wire doesn't take too kindly to it and will snap.
something along the line of 0.75mm/2 and multi stranded a thing we call tri-rate is the best you can use.

when it comes to lengthening looms you have two choices, 1st take the pins out of the plugs, 2nd choice dont, I prefer the 2nd because you dont have the hassle of remembering where they all went, and you can insert any colour length of wire you like because you have the two ends as the same colour if you see what I mean?
ie, red/black stripe-black-red/black stripe.
remember you really must use heat shrink over every soldered joint and dont forget to slide it over before you make the joint, and make sure the heat when making the joint isn't being transferred to the heat shrink or you will end up with the heat shrink in an embarrassing place.
also when I do it I use an over sheath of braded nylon

which expands (like a Chinese finger trap) and to finish sealed at both ends with a larger diameter heat shrink, not insulation tape as this is messy and makes the cable loom very stiff and more likely to snag ripping the insulation down to earth.

To successfully attach an end of a piece of wire to a pin, follow this procedure. Using a pair of wire strippers remove approximately 4mm of the wire casing from the end of the wire. Twist the fine loose wires up into a single thicker 'piece' of wire. Tin the wire by applying a thin layer of solder. Cut about 12mm of 2.5mm diameter heat shrink and slide onto wire. Solder the wire onto the pin and once the solder has cooled, cover the joint with the heat shrink. Use a heat gun to apply heat to the heat shrink. The heat shrink will reduce in size and fit tightly around the joint (figure 7).


Figure 7: Technique of applying heat shrink to a joint.

nothing to do with handle bar wiring but this does demonstrate the technique and has a diagram.

last but not least, remember to debur the holes so as not to cut through the cables during install or later due to vibration.

[Strawhead]

Thanks Simon,

as well as deburring holes we will be placing rubber grommets on all holes so that the wires are not damaged in any way.

Thanks to all for your assistance.

probably a silly question but in order to apply the heat shrink what is the best way to heat it. i do not have access to a blow torch.

With thanks

Andy

[S.T.Chapman]

quick answer Andy reread the quoted section in my last post where it describes the method

a heat gun is the prefered method but one of these gas storm lighters will do so long as you just waft it over, never a blow lamp you will burn the insulation and melt the solder

[Strawhead]

sorry, all is clear now

Andy

[dantheman]

used me petrol lighter meself