Winter protection???

[Roy]

Any good tips on keeping the old milwaukee iron rust free and protected over the coming months???

[Wow]

You could do a search as we've gone over this already. I use FS365 (Scottoiler) anti-corrosion spray. And I have just got a bottle of ACF-50 which is meant to be less grubby. Think Busters do an offer on them for a tenner at the moment.

[qwerty]

Silicon based spay. I give mine a very good wash, then dry it with chamois leather and a leaf blower (yes a leaf blower). Then I spay it with silicon based spray and cover it with a good quality cover. You can leave it outdoors (my Honda was done this was) and did not rust at all.

[BaZa ®]

Scf50 from our own club member see our Suppliers section delivered postage paid.

[nick_dj]

I cannot recommend S100 corrosion protection enough.
I clean my Tsport then ride it into the house and leave it overnight to dry completely. I then spray any exposed metal parts rub it in with my fingers not a cloth and leave it on. I reapply to the wheels regularly and any part that my leggings rub on. It is heat resistant so cover the exhausts and engine. I have ridden through 2 winters with this preparation and the only corrosion is from where I missed or it rubbed off. You still need to be sensible and chose when you ride and hose it down if the roads were of salty. Keep an eye on the bike after rides to spot anywhere you missed. You can get the whole S 100 range from any Harley dealer.
You often get some wonderful days Nov to March with a little preparation you can enjoy them and give the engine a clear out.
Nick
if you want any more details send me a PM with your phone number

[Wow]

Originally Posted by BaZa ®

Scf50 from our own club member see our Suppliers section delivered postage paid.

Thanks for that. There is so much to read on this site (and remember )
Time to get my membership sorted.

[RobK]

Lots of different stuff about to use.

As mentioned above ACF50 is the mutts nuts. I've used it along with a extra coatings of FS365 in the past and it's worked fine for me.

HTH
Rob.

[danpie]

acf50 is the biz. fs365 is also very good, but remember its waterbased so will wash off.
if you use a leaf blower to dry your bike, make sure its not used for anything else or it turns into an effective sand blaster!
and also, i find the best thing is to use the bike. if its left covered up all winter, you wont get chance to keep moving parts free, and it may get damp and corrode. if you use it you get a chance to clean it and keep it fresh.

[Ming the Merciless]

I use ACF50 on electrical bits (it cannot be bettered for this purpose) and Wintawax on cycle parts, as it is much cheaper than ACF50.

Info on Wintawax here: M & P - Product Information for 901602

[Roger]

If you live in the land of the rising damp like I do, then doubtless you will be storing your pride and joy over the long winter months. Cast your mind ahead - It's spring, you enter the garage, remove the old blanket, and there it is, rotting away, alloy covered in mildew, chrome peeling and it won't start 'cos the battery's broke! Maybe you should have done something about storing it properly over winter - but what?
Well, hopefully this short document should put you on the right track. Preparation for Storage.

1. Run motorcycle until engine is at normal operating temperature. You're going to wash it later, so don't worry about getting it dirty. Get the engine nice and hot so that any condensation is evaporated. While you're out fill up the fuel tank and add a fuel stabiliser. You can get stabiliser from good auto-parts shops or even your local Harley-Davidson Dealer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the bottle. Do not miss out the stabiliser; it slows the fuel from evaporating and leaving tarry by-products to gum anything up.
2. Stop the engine. Drain the oil tank, while the oil is still hot (careful here!). Now's a good time to install a new oil filter. Check the primary and gearbox lubricant levels and adjust the primary chain if necessary. Grease the wheel bearings and consider replacing the seals. Lubricate throttle and clutch cables.
3. Refill oil tank with the proper grade oil. Don't use an expensive synthetic, use the cheapest you can find, you will be throwing it away next spring. Halfords do an own-brand oil at less than £6 ($10) a gallon. Start the engine and run for 2 or three minutes to get the fresh oil circulated through the system. Don't do this in a garage or poorly ventilated area!
4. Remove the spark plugs; inject a few squirts of engine oil or WD40 into each cylinder. Turn the engine over 5-6 revolutions, then reinstall spark plugs.
5. It's a good idea to plug the line leading from the bottom of the oil tank to the 90° fitting on the oil pump cover. This will eliminate the possibility of oil seeping past the pump and filling the bottom end.
6. Thoroughly wash the bike. Pay particular attention to the underside. If there was salt on the road when you took your last ride, rinse two or three times with cold water before washing with warm (hot salt water just loves alloy). Wax the paintwork.
7. Spray all the nooks and crannies, bare chrome and exposed metal (not the brakes though) with a protective coat. The very best is Rocal Moistureguard, which is available in aerosols (very expensive though). You can find you local source on the website ROCAL, Inc. Guide, MUTCD Traffic, Safety Signs and Decals. If you can't find moistureguard, use WD40 or even thin oil. Do not apply any oil to disc rotors or brake pads.
8. Ensure that the engine and exhausts have cooled off enough to touch. Place a plastic bag over the air filter and fasten with a rubber band. This prevents moisture entering the top end. Spray WD40 into the exhaust pipe or silencer exits and block off with plastic bags and rubber bands. Also cover the coil and ignition module, and optionally, any breather pipes.
9. Check tyre pressures. As you're going to store the bike over winter, it is a good idea to securely support the motorcycle under the frame so that the weight is off the tyres.
10. Attach as many locks and chains, as you need in order to feel comfortable that your bike will stay where you put it. If you have a Pit-Bull, chain that to it as well.
11. Remove battery from bike. Charge as per your normal procedure. Then either charge the battery every other month or invest in a battery conditioner and leave it on charge over winter.
12. Cover motorcycle. Use a breathable cloth or canvas cover. If you have to store it outdoors, make sure that you performed step 7 very thoroughly. Check periodically to make sure damp has not got in.
13. If you store your helmet, clothes or boots in the garage you should protect them too. Thoroughly dry and warm indoors before sealing in plastic. Then you can put them in the garage.

Removing from Storage

1. Remove cover and any locks or chains.
2. If you had the bike on stands, carefully remove.
3. Wash the bike to remove moistureguard, WD40 etc. Remove any plastic bags.
4. Install battery and check that it's charged.
5. Clean the air filter element.
6. If oil feed line was plugged in step 5, unplug it and reconnect.
7. Turn on the fuel, start the engine and run until it reaches normal operating temperature, about 20 minutes. Outside - not in the garage. Stop engine.
8. Change the engine oil - yes again. This time put the proper stuff in. Personally I use Mobil 1, motorcycle oil, but feel free to use what you prefer.
9. Check engine, gearbox and primary oil level. Fill to correct levels with appropriate lubricants, if required.
10. Check the clutch isn't binding. Move shifter into gear, disengage clutch by pulling in clutch lever completely, and push bike back and forwards a few times to ensure proper clutch disengagement.
11. Check all controls to be sure they are operating properly; operate the front and rear brakes, throttle, clutch and shifter. Check that the brakes brake, clutch un-clutches and shifter shifts.
12. Check the steering races. Turn the handlebars through the full range and check for smoothness. Jack the front of the bike up, so that the front wheel is about 1" off the ground and the rear is on the ground. From the front, hold the bars straight, move very slightly and let go. They should fall back to the stop. If they don't fall back under their own weight, the steering nut is too tight. If they bounce back off the stop, too loose.
13. Check tyre pressure and condition.
14. Check all switches and electrics, including the lights, stoplights, indicators and horn for proper operation.
15. Check carefully for any fuel, oil or hydraulic fluid leaks.
16. Check rear belt or chain adjustment and wheel alignment.
17. After you've used up the (conditioned) tank of fuel, check and clean sparkplugs. Consider replacing.

That's it, go out and enjoy, and remember to keep an eye open for all those idiots out there.