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Thread: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

  1. #11
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    ...and this is the puller/installer tool, do you want shots of it in action?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #12
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    Here are the pushrod seals, one in the shaft and one (sprung loaded) in the clutch hub nut. Have no experience or hands on knowledge of the sprung one, later nuts have a usual modern seal, the one in the end of the mainshaft is cork (not used in later bikes).
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  3. #13
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    right heres a quick fix and it works ,,, both my bikes had a small leak on the tranny ,

    i bought REDLINE V-TWIN TRANSMISSION OIL 70-240 w well its made the gear change sweeter and NO LEAKS


    JOHN
    (old iron ass)

    BMW R80GS winter hack
    1978 FLH80 SHOVELHEAD
    1950 EL hydra glide PANHEAD

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  4. #14
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    If you use the more modern seal in the clutch hub nut it is possible to fit two of them for extra sealing. I've done this in my '58 Pan Shovel with out any problems.
    Ron.

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  5. #15
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    Hey Malco, no updates..? how are you getting on..?

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  6. #16
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    Hi,

    I'm sorry for the silence over he last couple of months, family and work are a distraction. I've collected all the parts necessary. I've got a new oil seal (which also came with a cork seal/washer) and I've gone for a James Gaskets 'Supernut' transmission sprocket lock nut (it has an extra oil seal on the inner lip to fit over the main shaft). I've also got new clutch hub nut seals and I've bought a clutch hub puller.

    As yet I haven't got the main drive oil seal tool so a couple of weekends ago I stripped and cleaned the clutch, removed the hub nut and fitted a modern seal to replace the spring and two washers. Since then I've been on a couple of VMCC club runs and so far the clutch has stopped filling with oil and binding, so at least the leak into the clutch housing is fixed. But it's still leaking from the main shaft oil seal.

    Thanks all for the advice and pics - it was all spot on and all very helpful.

    I've also now joined the club which means I can now show you what I'm working with.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My next task is to get hold of the main shaft oil seal tool so I can complete the job. My service manual lists the part number as 12734-42, which the club does not have (I've been in contact with Andy. The club does however have tool 95660-42 which from the description Andy sent me yesterday seems very similar - but I'm not 100% sure.

    If the tool fits, I plan to get this job done next week and hopefully back on the road to make the most of the summer.

    Thanks again
    Malco

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  7. #17
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    We'd love to see her at some events if your plans all work out - this club was founded by flatheads so there is a lot of affection for them here!

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  8. #18
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    Thank you Paul for your help on this and to other members to of which I have the tool ready for Malcolm and he should receive this very soon.It's nice to see all of us helping a new club member (and old) out what ever the problem or advice they require.Long may this continue.cheers

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  9. #19
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    I couldn't agree more, everyone has been a great help and extremely knowledgeable - this was my main reason for joining.

    If I remember I'll take a couple of pics when I do the work. Given the rate of oil loss I'm expecting to have to replace main shaft bushes and bearings at some point, but I hope this work will see me through the summer and I can rebuild the box over the winter.

    If there are ride outs and events I can make (I'm in Chichester, West Sussex), I will certainly bring the bike out.

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  10. #20
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    Re: Big Twin flathead transmission oil loss

    Just a tip here Malco, my mentor of long ago learned me that whenever you pull off an inner clutch-hub it is a good thing to check sprocket alignment after the inner hub is fully re-torqued back on but before you bend the tab on the hub-nut lock washer. I was learned that this is particularly necessary if the tranny and/or tranny-plate has been loosened on 64-back BTs ( the aluminium primary, 65-on, solved, m.o.l., the motor/tranny axial alignment issues, leaving the 'sprockets in parallel' one). Doesn't take long at all and insures your chain will run true. Un-even alignment can affect bearing load(ing), clutch engagement v& release, wear, wear, ect., etc.
    I have seen instances where a new corker buffer-plate (ring) was installed on the inner-hub without an alignment check. The result was, to understate, some very unhappy campers. IMO, the aluminium backed buff-plate is for shite. Barnett makes a steel-backed one that has a little thicker corking than many. I have seen differences of more than 25 thous. overall thickness between examples of buff-plates. Be thou wary. I run the Barnett one.
    Personally, I note the measurement it before dis-assembly so that upon re-assembly any inconsistencies may be observed and delt with prior to 'Yippee!'
    Nice bike you got there, btw.

    Kudos to your effort here Paul.

    When in danger or in doubt, run in circles scream and shout!

    A common mistake made when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.

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