Shovelhead Primary (FXEF late 84)

[El Hombre]

Isn't the one on the left cheaper in Ann Summers stores..?

I believe so, but only for HOG members.

[El Hombre]

Inner race bearing removal is straightforward using HD34902-84 Bearing Race Installer and Remover. It is helpful to support tool with a wrench and make sure the u shaped section sits neatly against the bearing. I did it slowly to avoid damaging the mainshaft. be careful not to catch the spline threads when removing the loose bearing. I greased the end of the mainshaft and put a small amount of lubricant on the tool threads.







Late shovel and early evo only. Correct tool makes this job simple, but you do need to be patient and careful.

[El Hombre]

Welding

As previously outlined, I discovered a broken finger on the clutch basket. I decided to get this welded - picture 1 shows mock up requested by welder. I use Bunns Welding in Mill Hill, London. He has been there since the 1980's and is highly regarded. My main concern is avoiding damage to the surrounding area and equal height with the other 3 fingers.

[El Hombre]

Welding

I also discovered a small surface crack in the outer primary. When I bought the bike, the side stand rubber was missing and the side stand was knocking against the casing. This may have contributed to the damage. I have serviced the stand and bought a new rubber.



I ground the area ready for welding.

[Paul P.]

You are right about the sidestand rubber, the "foot" will happily punch through the cover without it - especially from exuberant left handers!

[El Hombre]

You are right about the sidestand rubber, the "foot" will happily punch through the cover without it - especially from exuberant left handers!

I used Gorilla glue on mine and it's popped off. Do you reckon epoxy will do the job?

Cheers,
Rod

[Paul P.]

With mine I scratched up the surface finely and used some floor tile adhesive - not because it is some secret shovel trick but because it was what I had to hand! Maybe some of that double sided tape for mounting car mirrors would work, if it isn't affected by heat? (y'know, the stuff that says get it right because it won't lift for a second try)

[El Hombre]

With mine I scratched up the surface finely and used some floor tile adhesive - not because it is some secret shovel trick but because it was what I had to hand! Maybe some of that double sided tape for mounting car mirrors would work, if it isn't affected by heat? (y'know, the stuff that says get it right because it won't lift for a second try)

Thanks Paul, I'll pop down to B&Q and see what they've got.

[El Hombre]

Removing the main drive gear oil seal 12013A was a stage that I approached with a degree of caution. I did a lot of research, but came up with very little on it's removal, except that it was difficult. The tool HD95666-42A is very expensive, so I explored different alternatives such as seal picks, crochet needles and even the drill and screw method using a 1 mm drill bit. In the end I used two small flat Facom screwdrivers. It took about 20 minutes and I hooked the driver under the face of the metal cup without causing damage to the respective surfaces. I did muller the seal, but that does not matter. The first pictures show a new seal with fairy good images of the outer shell, spring and lip.





Next is the mullered seal with no damage to the shaft. However, when removed you can see inside the gear opening and that shows wear on the inner facing. There's not much I can do about that without removing the box. Perhaps I could use some Threebond when I install the new seal?

I have ordered a length of 1.1/4 aluminium tube for installation.





Not as difficult as I thought. Obviously, they will vary and it would be easier on a lift in warmer conditions. Damage to seal looks a bit brutal, but it is very soft thin metal. Shaft is very hard steel. Hooking the driver across the front face seemed like the best way.

[El Hombre]

Seal driver - I needed something to install the main drive gear seal 12013A, so I ordered a piece of alloy tube on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM...53.m2749.l2649

Cost is £5.65 for 1.1/4 (31,7 mm) diameter by 200 mm long. Tube wall is 3.2 mm thick, which is better than some of the crappy thinner stuff on there. Only thing is the inner diameter is too small, so I had to grind off about 1 mm and finish it off with a plumbers pipe reamer and fine emery - no sharp edges. Hope it works.